One Off 2013 Hot Wheels VW Turbo Beetle

camarocamaro2camaro1For the model year of 2013-2014, Chevy released approximately 1,500 special edition Hot Wheels Camaro SS. Remember spending countless hours pretending to roar around orange plastic racetracks, while you had to make your own engine noises? Or how about when you begged your mom to let you play for just five more minutes because you were in the middle of the biggest race of your Hot Wheels career? Of course, those are memories that you’ll never forget, but wouldn’t it be great to take this Kinetic Blue beauty straight out to the pavement for some real-life, awe-inspiring fun? You could even bring your mom along. Just don’t be surprised if this time around, you find her begging you for five more minutes.
Inspired by one of the sixteen original Hot Wheels toy cars, one glance will leave anyone in awe, as they fawn over the black painted 21″ red-striped wheels, black grille surround with red pinstripe, black racing stripe, and Hot Wheels logos on the front fenders, decklid and front seats.
This limited, special edition Camaro is a dream come true for millions of fans, collectors and anyone who remembers feeling that kid-like sense of wonder.
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Hot Wheels Badges Added

rearbeforerearbeforerearbeforeAdded the GM OEM Hot Wheels badges to the Beetle. Since there’s no way I can afford an official Hot Wheels Camaro SS, I’ll settle for a custom Hot Wheels Beetle.

Hint Of A New Project

emblemsGetting parts for a new project as soon as we get some warm weather…

Valance Mod

Really wanted to give the rear of the Beetle a different look, so I decided to black out the lower valance. Not a difficult mod, a little time consuming, but very inexpensive. Plastic Rivets The lower valance is held in place with 3 plastic rivets in the center of the valance and two metal torx on each side of the valance. You can fight the plastic rivets all day long, but save yourself a lot of time and just drill them out.  The rivet at the top of the picture is the one I drilled out, the rivet at the bottom of the picture is the replacement.  They’re readily available at any auto parts store for just a couple of dollars. Total time to remove the valance is about 5 minutes. Valance Removed Once the valance was removed, I washed it thoroughly and wet sanded with 2000 grit sand paper. You’ll appreciate the effort you put into this later. It’s very important that you remove any dirt, grime and wax before you paint. I spent about an hour wet sanding and prepping for paint.  Once I was convinced that it was prepped and ready for paint, I used a prep cloth to ensure that the valance was clean and free of any oil or wax. Wet Sanded The prep cloth is a necessary step, probably the most important step. If the valance has any oil, grime or wax on it, the paint/primer will not adhere. I then gave it a light coat of primer and examined for any imperfections. I ended up giving it two good coats of primer, then wet sanded until the surface was smooth. Again, not rocket science, just time consuming. Just when you think you’ve got it where you want it, do it again. Don’t be in a rush. After the final wet sanding, I let it sit in the sun (while the sun was out) for awhile.  Up until this point, I’ve got about 3 hours into the project. I didn’t want to paint the valance in the garage, so I was dodging off and on rain showers for a while. Once I was convinced that the rain was over, the painting began. Primer A total of 3 coats, letting it dry at least a half hour in between coats. After the final coat, I let it sit for about 3 hours. I was surprised at just how fast the paint dried. It was actually dry to the touch within an hour, but I didn’t want to rush. The car isn’t going to be driven anywhere today, so the paint will have plenty of time to cure before it hits the road. But after 3 hours, it was plenty dry enough to install.  Finished Project On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, I’ll give this project a 4. Not hard, but takes some patience and is a little time consuming. But hey, I wasn’t going to get the grass cut today anyhow, so I had plenty of time.  Total cost for the project (considering my time is free) was $10.79. All of these supplies can be picked up any any auto parts supply store.  Supplies That covered the cost of the paint, the rivets (pack of 6) and the prep cloth. I already had a can of primer.  If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

 

Here’s a much better pic after the Beetle got a good cleaning…New Valance Mod

 

 

New Mod

Thinking about doing a new mod. This one should be fairly easy once I figure out if the lower part of the rear clip is separate from the upper part. The part in question is outlined in read. rearbefore If this part is separate from the upper part of the rear clip, I’d like to paint it a satin or flat black as shown in this photoshopped pic. I’m hoping that this part of the rear bumper is separate for the upper part. From what I can tell, the bumper cover is two separate pieces. I’ll have to do some research, but it looks like it’s totally possible. A quick look underneath, doesn’t look like a lot of work to remove the valance. Three plastic rivets and two torx screws.  rearafter I think it’ll add a whole new dimension to the rear of the Beetle.

ABT Eyelid Installation Part III

Weather be damned, these eyelids were getting installed today. The added benefit of having a garage free of enough clutter to actually park a car in. So, after getting both eyelids prepped, painted and polished, the last step of the project was the installation. As I mentioned in a previous post, I’ve opted to adhere the eyelids to the headlight assembly using 3M VHB tape. 3M Adhesive Tape This stuff is very strong and used on door trim and molding to hold it in place for years. Before I applied the tape to the back of the eyelids, I had to do some prep work. I sanded the back of the eyelids with a 800 grit sand paper, used a 3M prep cloth to clean it, then rubbed it down with rubbing alcohol (as per the instructions). Then I started laying out the 1 inch tape to the back of the eyelids, covering about 90% of the surface. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo, so you’ll just have to take my word for it. And I’ll be damned if I’m taking them off to get a pic. I also cleaned the headlight assembly and rubbed it down with rubbing alcohol as well. After that, it was just a matter of peeling off the back of the tape, aligning the eyelid to the headlight assembly and pressing it into place. I’d recommend that you dry fit the eyelids before you pull the back of the tape off and use something to mark reference points before you finish. It’ll make installing them much easier. Keep in mind, once this tape touches a surface, it sticks! So here’s the finished product. Finished Product Overall, I’m pleased with the results. A more aggressive looking headlight assembly. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, I’ll give this project a 7. Only because the prep, paint and polish requires a lot of patience, which I don’t have. I had to muster a lot of patience for an acceptable outcome. Would I do it again? Probably, but only after the price of the eyelids drop! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Finished

 

 

Some additional photos:

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ABT Eyelid Installation Part II

We gave the painted eyelids all night for the paint and clear coat to cure. So today consisted of wet sanding and polishing. Wet Sanding First was a good wet sanding using 2000 grit sand paper and lots of water. The key here is to take your time and keep the painted surface and sand paper wet. Too much friction can cause many issues. Sand evenly with slight pressure. All in all, I’d say that I spent at least 20 or 25 minutes wet sanding each eyelid. The process wasn’t hard, you just need to pay attention to what you’re doing! The end result was very pleasing. The eyelids had a nice, smooth surface, ready for polishing. After Wet Sanding After the wet sanding was complete, I began the process of polishing. I actually dreaded this part, thinking that it was going to take forever and that somehow, I’d screw it up. Fact is, it wasn’t hard at all. Time consuming yes, but not hard. I used a buffering disk that fit on my variable speed drill and Turtle Wax polishing compound. Again, patience is virtue. Take your time, use even pressure. Keep plenty of rubbing compound on your buffering disk. Polishing Compound Every once in a while, you can wipe down the eyelid to check out your progress and to find any spots that may need more attention. You’ll be amazed at just how easy this is. I really took my time and spent about an hour on each eyelid. All in all, I’m very satisfied with the finished product. I figured that I’ve got about 3 hours total into the project and about $45.00 worth of supplies. Finished Product Don’t know exactly how much a good body shop would’ve charged to paint these for me, but I’m sure it would’ve been more than $45.00 dollars. Unfortunately, mother nature is not playing nice today, so I won’t actually install them until tomorrow. Stay tuned!

 

Continue to Part III