Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 2

Door Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh Continues
Door Refresh Continues
Door Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesOne thing I forgot to mention in the first post was removing the door check rod (the rod thats anchored to the body pillar with a pin and keeps the door from opening too far. Refer to pic #10) and replacing the rubber bumper. Refer to pic #1. Again, this differs from year to year. You have to remove the pin that connects the rod to the body pillar anyhow to replace the rubber door seal. Once you remove the pin thats held in with a C clip, you can slide the rod out through the door towards the inside. Tonight I got the rivets installed to secure the new vent latch to the vent window frame. Pic #2. Then I reinstalled the vent window into the frame. I used some WD40 on the shaft that runs through the rubber and vent window frame to make it easier to install. WD40 and soapy water will be your best friend during this project. I also removed the retaining plate that secures the rod of the vent window to the frame, its held in place with a 10mm bolt. Makes reinstalling the window into the frame much easier. Its also a good time to apply some grease to the rod of the vent window so itll spin easily. Once the vent window is installed youll have to replace the mushroom rivet that connects the top of the vent window to the vent window frame. Pic #4. Whether you use a rivet or a bolt, dont forget the washer that separates these two pieces. The rivets I ordered came with the washers. I bought a tool thats used to compress the mushroom rivets. Rivet Tool For Vent WindowIt did an ok job, but I think it wouldve worked better if the rivet was aluminum. The rivet that I ordered was much harder than aluminum (or at least it seems to be) and it was much harder to compress and flare. The tool helped get it started, then I reverted to a hammer and vice to finish the job. It wasnt terribly hard, but youll have to be a little creative to see whats best for you. Of course the easiest thing to do is to use a little bolt and nut. Its up to you. Now it was time to reinstall the vent window assembly. Ill be honest with you, a little cussing was involved. Youll have to be careful not to slide it around too much, youll scratch your paint and new aluminum on the outside scrapers. Thats why its important to remember how you got it out. What I did was to lube up the rubber on the end of the scrapers where the vent window frame has to slide down through the door. On the inner scraper, I pulled the rubber flap back and out of the way so the frame would slide down through the door without pinching the rubber. Then its just a matter of pushing the vent window assembly towards the front of the door. Itll be tight with the new rubber, but not hard at all. If everything is lined up properly, the screw hole at the top of the vent window frame should line up with the threads in the top of the door. Dont forget to reinstall the screw that secures it. [Read more…]

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 1

Gasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeGasket and Seal UpgradeToday was the day to begin this project! Weather was nice (70 here in Ky) and even though I got a fairly late start, I got more done than I had anticipated. Biggest problem so far, I forgot to press the record button on the GoPro. So, for the first door, I have no video. I started on the drivers door, so I hope to record the passenger door so at least you can see the steps taken and the order in which I did them. First things first! For anybody getting ready to take on this project, listen to the advice of everybody whos done it before you. Everybody told me to pay more and get the German kits, you wont regret it. If you get anything out of this how to, let that be the #1 piece of advice. BUY THE GERMAN parts/kits, not only is the quality better, but the rubber seals fit so much easier. Everything Ive ordered thus far has come from Jbugs.com. Ive only ran into a couple of snags which Ill explain later, but for the most part, I couldnt be happier with the way everything is going together. I spent about 7 hours total so far on the drivers door. Not being in any rush, plus Ive taken the time to clean the doors and replace a couple of other items while I had it striped down. I didnt have the right size rivets for the vent window lever, if I did, I wouldve easily completed the drivers door today. But again, Im in no rush. Ok, lets start with the step by step, you can refer to the pics above.

1. Remove the window crank and door opening handle cover. I ditched these because Im installing new ones along with the missing hardware (spring and buffer) on the window crank. (no pics for this part, but its self explanatory)
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Passenger Side Mirror Project Part III

Passenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectThe passenger side mirror and mounting nut that I ordered from Mid America Motorworks arrived today, so it was time to button up the passenger side mirror project. My first impressions of the mirror was that it was a quality piece, matched the OEM driver side mirror perfectly. First thing I did was to test fit the mounting nut to the mirror and Im glad that I did before trying to fish the nut up through the door. Though the nut fit, it was very, very tight. So tight that there wouldve been no way to tighten it onto the mirror mount from inside the door. The chrome was just too thick. After a few passes on the wire wheel, the nut threaded with ease. I disassembled the mirror to make the install a little easier. The 5/8 hole that I had pre-drilled in the door with the step bit was also a little to tight to get the threaded part of the mirror mount through. I couldnt use the step bit to make it any larger because Id end up with a hole that was too big. So I broke out the dremel and made a few passes with the sanding bit, making the hole just big enough for the mount to slip through. Things were looking pretty good at this point. Now the hard part. How in the world to fish the nut up through the door and hold it securely enough to thread the mirror mount into it. I found a small metal rod laying around the garage so I thought Id use shipping tape to secure the nut to the rod and use that to fish the nut up through the door. The Gods mustve been smiling upon me because I thought that this process would take several attempts but I got it first try. Once I got the mirror mount threaded, it tightened up nicely and I was able to simply pull the rod and tape off of the nut. The whole process took about a minute and a half. I lucked out, but I was prepared to spend a couple hours on this part of the project. Once the mirror mount was secure, I put the mirror back together, made my final adjustments, then put this project to bed. For anybody else thinking about doing this project, I say go for it. Just make sure you have the right tools for the job, be patient and prepared to walk away for a few moments. A few cans of your favorite brew wouldnt hurt either. I stretched this project out over 3 days while I had the mirror and nut on order. I think that worked to my advantage. I wasnt rushed and like I said, I got lucky getting the nut threaded first try. Very, very pleased with the end result. I wanted the passenger side mirror to match the driver side mirror and that was accomplished.

Passenger Side Mirror Project Part I
Passenger Side Mirror Project Part II

Passenger Side Mirror Project Part II

Passenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectAccording to UPS, my passenger side mirror and nut should be here some time tomorrow, so this evening, I decided to go ahead and remove the door hardware and panel to get an idea of how Im going to get the new mirror mounted. For whatever reason, I was expecting more room to work with, but its obvious, thats not the case. So, the big challenge now is to figure out how Im going to fish the nut up through the door and be able to hold it in place while I screw in the mirror mount. Ive got a couple of ideas floating around in my head, but until I actually have the mirror and nut in hand, I really cant test any of those ideas. But at least for now, everything is ready and hopefully tomorrow evening, well be able to give it a try.

Passenger Side Mirror Project Part I
Passenger Side Mirror Project Part III

Passenger Side Mirror Project Part I

Passenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectPassenger Side Mirror ProjectI was really wanting this to be a more detailed tutorial, even had the GoPro setup to document everything. It was only after I finished drilling the hole that I realized that I forgot to push the record button on the GoPro. However, I did take pictures in between steps, so hopefully thatll help anybody else who plans to take on this project. Since I dont have the mirror in hand (its on order), I thought Id get a jump and prep the door. Tools needed for this part of the project: drill, hammer, center punch and drill bits. I started by printing off the template used to mark the hole for the passenger side mirror. You can download the template (provided by Mid America Motorworks) by clicking here. The instructions for using the template are self explanatory. Once I got the template secured in place, I took the center punch and hammer and with one good strike, made a good indention for drilling the hole. Double check everything before you proceed. Once you start, theres no going back. I started with a 9/64 drill bit, then graduated to a 7/32 bit, then to a 5/16 and finally a 3/8 bit. I took a black marker and outlined above the 5/8 mark on the step bit so Id know when to stop drilling with it. I really thought this part was going to be difficult, but the step bit cut through the metal with ease and the whole process took only a few seconds. Since I wont have the mirror and nut in hand until the end of the week, I taped off the freshly cut hole and sprayed it with primer to prevent any oxidation. Once the primer was dry, I installed a 5/8 plug to seal it until Im ready to proceed to the next step which will be to remove the door panel and install the mirror. Hopefully this time next week, well have this project wrapped up.

Passenger Side Mirror Project Part II
Passenger Side Mirror Project Part III

1969 VW Beetle Speedometer Rebuild

I ordered this 1969 VW speedometer to use while I rebuild the speedometer in my 1968 Beetle. The 68 speedos are hard to find and expensive. They were a one year only design, so its worth your time to try to repair and rebuild it yourself. Mine is in good condition, but it suffers from the speedo whine and the gels need to be replaced. So before I remove mine from the car, I figured Id practice on the donor speedo that I got off of Ebay. Once I feel confident with the finished rebuild, Ill swap it out with the 68 speedo in my car and proceed with rebuilding it. The donor 69 speedo is in pretty good condition, glass is dirty inside, its a little discolored and the gels look a little warped. But its a perfect candidate to practice on and itll serve its purpose once I swap it out with the one currently in the car. I also rolled back the speedo to display the actual miles on my motor, I plan on doing this as well when I rebuild the 68 speedo that is currently in the car. A lot of people dread this part of the process, but I found it to be very easy. I did this rebuild in one evening, the whole process from start to finish took about 5 hours or so. To start, Ill list the tools I used, theyre also shown in the photos below.

TOOLS:
1. Small flat head screwdriver
2. Dental tools (used to pry the bezel)
3. Steel wool (used to clean the housing)
4. Warm, soapy water and cleaning rags (DO NOT USE ANY CAUSTIC CLEANING SOLUTIONS)
5. Super glue (not necessary, but I ended up needing it)
6. Colorful folder tabs (used if youre going to replace the gels)

Parts Of The SpeedometerParts Of The Speedometer

Click on the photos for a larger view!

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