Deck Lid Wall Light Project Part 1

VW DecklidIll just leave you guessing with this pic. But Ill tell you this.it will not go on a car. It will have a lot more rust on it when Im finished. It will be functional and serve a purpose. I dont have a plan for this project, Im just winging it as I go. Dont want to have a lot of money into the project, so Im using spare parts around the garage. If I can do what I want to do for less than 50 dollars, Ill be very happy!

VW Deck LidStarted with a donated deck lid from a friend of mine. It was actually in really good condition, so I began the process of aging it a bit. Trying to make it look like its been sitting in a field for about 20 years. Started by replacing the license plate light hood that I had laying around, also ordered a gasket for the hood. So far, Im 12 dollars in to the project. Finished the night with some light sanding. BTW, as a rusting agent, Im using 1 part white vinegar, 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 1 part table saltheat the area, apply the mixture and let it sit. Works like a charm!

Rusting VW Deck LidModified License Plate HoodFinished doing all of the sanding that Im going to do on the deck lid. The idea is to have it look like its been sitting in a field for many years. As I mentioned before, I used a mixture of table salt, hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar on the bare metal to start the rusting process. So far, Im very pleased with the results. I also had to modify the license plate light housing to accept the new light that Ill be using. Still need to make a trip to Hobby Lobby to find what Im looking for.

Clear CoatedFinished the rust enhancement, sanding and got everything clear coated in a satin finish. Mounted the license plate, cleaned up the deck lid release and fitted the license plate light hood. Ordered the proper seal for the hood, should be here some time next week. Still need to make a trip to Hobby Lobby to pick up the light, then I need to determine if Im going to make this just a light fixture or a shelf. All in due time. 🙂

VW Deck Lid ShelfVW Deck Lid ShelfGot the wood cut for the shelf and the VW badge installed. Still havent decided exactly what Im going to do with the shelf. I cut this prototype out of 212, I dont know if Im going to stay with that or maybe try a 112. Also dont know if Im going to stain the wood or paint it. The overall weight of the entire display is much lighter than it looks. Hanging it, even while using the 212 for the shelf, shouldnt be a problem. So far, Im very pleased with the results 🙂

Deck Lid Wall Light Project Part 1
Deck Lid Wall Light Project Part 2
Deck Lid Wall Light Project Part 3

New Window Regulator and Pop Out Window Latches

New Pop Out Window LatchesChanging Window RegulatorNew Window RegulatorWhen I replaced all of the door seals, scrapers, etc. last month, my gut told me to splurge and replace the window regulators while I was at it. I ignored that gut feeling and with the windows fitting much tighter with the new rubber, the drivers side regulator gave out last week. I was rolling the window up and it just began to spin. Lesson learned. Im sure the passenger side will be next, but Ill wait for as long as I can before I have to replace it. I ordered a replacement regulator from jbugs.com for $64.95. Price was reasonable, quality was acceptable. It pretty much matched the quality of the original regulator, only the support brace at the bottom of the regulator was different. The replacement was only ribbed on the top where the original was ribbed on the top and bottom. Other than that, it was pretty much the same. Now what really sucked is that my 1968 uses the same regulator as the 65, 66 and 67. They changed mid year in 1968 to the newer (and easier to replace) regulators. What I figured would take an hour or so to replace ended up taking 3 hours. Cussing was involved, plus a couple of bloody fingers. Fitment was pretty good, it was just a bear to replace, I had to remove the vent window assembly to remove the old regulator and install the new one. But once it was done, it worked perfectly. The window is still tight in the new rubber, so I hope this replacement regulator stands up to the test. While I was at it, I went ahead and replaced the rear pop out window latches. I cleaned the originals a few weeks ago and decided against buying new ones, but the originals just didnt clean up as good as I thought they would so I ordered new ones from Jbugs.com for 49.95 each (ouch)! The quality is as good as the originals though and youd never notice the difference between the new ones and the originals. Installing the clip that secures them to glass can test your patience, especially with new rubber. All in all, a nice evening project and Im happy with the result.

New Trunk Liner

New Trunk LinerNew Trunk LinerNew Trunk LinerGot my new trunk liner from Wolfsburg West today. Very pleased with the fit, quality and price (minus the cost of shipping which was more than the cost of the product). Just what Mabel needed to dress out the trunk a bit. Made from the same material as the original liner, youd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 5

Door Refresh CompleteDoor Refresh CompleteDoor Refresh CompleteDoor Refresh CompleteSo this evening I had planned on working on the passenger door to get as far along with it as I could. Four and a half hours later, the project is complete. Everything went together so easily on the passenger door that I was able to finish. Didnt take a lot of pics because everything was pretty much laid out and explained when I did the drivers door, no need to repeat everything. So with this final post on the project, Ill share some thoughts, tips and other info that may help you if you decide to do this. First and foremost, I have to give props to the kit that Jbugs.com sells. Not everything was perfect, but the important stuff was good quality German parts that fit correctly and made the install so much easier. They also supplied a dvd to provide tips and info. They made good on a mismatched part (window crank handles) and the prices were very competitive. Alright, on to the insight.

Things To Know:
1. Plan your project out! Know what you need for your particular year of Beetle and make a list. Ask others who have already done this project for their input. I didnt order my kit, my wife bought it for me for Christmas. Jbugs and a couple of friends were very helpful and let her know everything down to the last detail that was needed to rebuild the doors. You cant always tell by looking what youll need to purchase. Some of the original parts may have been eliminated over the years. Dont forget the little things.
2. Again, spurge and buy the quality parts. Not only do they look better, but they fit better and are easier to install. Truth is, the quality parts arent that much more expensive.
3. Know the tools youll need in advance and have them on hand when you begin your project. Nothing worse than having to stop to buy or borrow a tool that you dont have but need. Soapy water and WD40 will be your best friends.
[Read more…]

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 4

Check Rod BumperRubber Grommet For Door PanelFoam For Door PanelDoor Panel FoamWeather Cord For Vapor BarrierWeather Cord For Vapor BarrierWeather Cord For Vapor BarrierNew Vapor BarrierFinished Drivers DoorFinished Drivers DoorFinished Drivers DoorThe drivers door is complete! Installed the vapor barrier, door panel and hardware and now its on to the passenger side door. I think its important that if youre going to do a project like this, go ahead and replace the parts that are often overlooked. The check rod bumper being one of those. The one on my drivers door was no existent, it had broken apart long ago. I went ahead and took the one out of the passenger door so you can see what it is. Pic #1. The bumper was still there, but it was chewed up and compressed. Really didnt serve much of a purpose. I think both new ones was a couple of dollars. I installed new rubber grommets for the door panel clips, pic #2. The existing ones were hardened and basically fell apart. I also replaced the compression foam around the door latch and on the inside of the door panel, another step that is often overlooked. Pics #3 and #4. I bought the cord weather seal (pic #5) to install the new vapor barrier. When doing my research, seems like a lot of people were using this. Its cheap and easy to work with. This particular box was enough to do the whole door and still have a bit left over. I wiped down the entire inner door with alcohol to make sure it was clean and free of any oils, then proceed to apply the weather seal. It was a bit cool in the garage, so I took the heat gun and heated it up a bit so it would compress easier. Pics #6 and #7. Then a cut the vapor barrier to approximately the right size, stuck it to the weather cord, then trimmed. Very easy process. Pic #8. I had to cut the vapor barrier for the door latch mechanism and the slot for the arm rest rod. Before you apply the vapor barrier, be sure to clean out the bottom of door, make sure the drain holes are clear and that nothing is left in there to clog them up. I also cleaned and re-lubed the window regulator. When the vapor barrier was trimmed, it was just a matter of re-installing the door panel, door latch dressing and new window crank handle, buffer and spring that goes between the door skin and door panel. Window Crank and Trimmings Another step that a lot of people ignore and leave out. So, with the drivers side door finished, I couldnt be more happy with the results. Buying quality parts, this wasnt a cheap project, but well worth it. It looks so much better, its functional and its a very satisfying project. I cheated a little and started on the passenger door. Wanted to start on it while everything was fresh in my mind. Its much easier second time around, you already know what to look for. I got the passenger side door striped down, vent window taken apart and fixed the interior light switch on the passenger side, it just needed the contact cleaned up. Hard telling how long its been since it last worked. Tomorrow night, I plan to clean the door and start installing the new rubber. Im hoping that I have the same luck as I did on the drivers door. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 1
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 2
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 3
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 4
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 5

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 3

Vent Window PinVent Window PinVent Window PinLock KnobsNot a lot happening this evening to this project, but I did get the last order to complete this project. I had originally ordered the vent window pins from Jbugs.com but I wasnt really happy with them. They didnt feel like aluminum, more like brass, they even have a brass hue to them. Pic #1. I installed one yesterday on the drivers side vent window, but wasnt happy with it, it looked tacky. I had also ordered 2 vent window pins from wagen-werks.com along with original looking lock knobs. In pic #4 above, the knob on the left is what I ordered from Jbugs.com, the one on the right is the one I ordered from wagen-werks.com. The one from wagen-werks.com looks much better, just like the original on the 1968. Anyhow, I drilled out the vent window pin that I installed yesterday and installed the new. Not only did it install much easier, it looks so much better and it mushroomed perfectly using the tool that I bought. Pics #2 and #3. Thats it for tonight. I still need to make a trip to Lowes to get everything I need for the vapor barrier on the drivers door, then its time to start on the passenger door.

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 1
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 2
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 3
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 4
Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 5

Door and Window Seal Replacement Part 2

Door Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh Continues
Door Refresh Continues
Door Refresh ContinuesDoor Refresh ContinuesOne thing I forgot to mention in the first post was removing the door check rod (the rod thats anchored to the body pillar with a pin and keeps the door from opening too far. Refer to pic #10) and replacing the rubber bumper. Refer to pic #1. Again, this differs from year to year. You have to remove the pin that connects the rod to the body pillar anyhow to replace the rubber door seal. Once you remove the pin thats held in with a C clip, you can slide the rod out through the door towards the inside. Tonight I got the rivets installed to secure the new vent latch to the vent window frame. Pic #2. Then I reinstalled the vent window into the frame. I used some WD40 on the shaft that runs through the rubber and vent window frame to make it easier to install. WD40 and soapy water will be your best friend during this project. I also removed the retaining plate that secures the rod of the vent window to the frame, its held in place with a 10mm bolt. Makes reinstalling the window into the frame much easier. Its also a good time to apply some grease to the rod of the vent window so itll spin easily. Once the vent window is installed youll have to replace the mushroom rivet that connects the top of the vent window to the vent window frame. Pic #4. Whether you use a rivet or a bolt, dont forget the washer that separates these two pieces. The rivets I ordered came with the washers. I bought a tool thats used to compress the mushroom rivets. Rivet Tool For Vent WindowIt did an ok job, but I think it wouldve worked better if the rivet was aluminum. The rivet that I ordered was much harder than aluminum (or at least it seems to be) and it was much harder to compress and flare. The tool helped get it started, then I reverted to a hammer and vice to finish the job. It wasnt terribly hard, but youll have to be a little creative to see whats best for you. Of course the easiest thing to do is to use a little bolt and nut. Its up to you. Now it was time to reinstall the vent window assembly. Ill be honest with you, a little cussing was involved. Youll have to be careful not to slide it around too much, youll scratch your paint and new aluminum on the outside scrapers. Thats why its important to remember how you got it out. What I did was to lube up the rubber on the end of the scrapers where the vent window frame has to slide down through the door. On the inner scraper, I pulled the rubber flap back and out of the way so the frame would slide down through the door without pinching the rubber. Then its just a matter of pushing the vent window assembly towards the front of the door. Itll be tight with the new rubber, but not hard at all. If everything is lined up properly, the screw hole at the top of the vent window frame should line up with the threads in the top of the door. Dont forget to reinstall the screw that secures it. [Read more…]