Aussie Trim

New Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimNew Aussie TrimBad Door Handle SealsNew Aussie Trim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve been wanting to do this project for a while, just never got around to it. I’ve always been a fan of the Australian trim on the vintage Beetles and I wanted to try and replicate it the best I could with my own spin. The idea was to use reworked metal trim, but after many failed attempts, I decided to go with the more modern ABS trim. It was easy enough to work with. I’m happy with the outcome, not perfect, but I like it. And if I don’t like it in a couple of years, I can always remove it. I won’t do a step by step, the pics pretty much speak for themselves, but if you have any questions, please feel free to ask. You can do this project for less than 20 dollars. I did take this opportunity to order new door handle seals. I just installed these in March of this year and they have already deteriorated. I know it’s a cheap part, but nonetheless, nothing is made like it used to be. I believe I got these from Jbugs.com.

Set Timing On A Vintage VW

I’ve been wanting to put a video together about setting the timing on a vintage VW for some time, but recently came across this video by Chris Vallone that pretty much sums it up. Two of the most important things to remember are the type of distributor you have and the type of pulley you have. The circuit tester like the one used in this video can be picked up at most auto parts stores, I purchased mine at Amazon.

Just Some Pics

Our 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelOur 1968 VW Beetle MabelJust some pics of Mabel that I took today. Would love to have attended more local car shows this summer, but I just didn’t make it, mainly because I forgot about them. I think she’d do good in her category of all original, slightly modified. She’s a great conversation piece!

Mabel Oil Change (repost)

Ready For Oil ChangeDirty EngineOil UsedOil Change KitClean EngineToday was the day for Mabel to get her oil changed. There’s always a huge argument about which kind of oil to use in these old cars, but we won’t get into a debate about that, I’ll just let you know what I use and what works for me. I always start with getting the car as level as possible, running the engine long enough to get the old oil nice and warm so it’ll drain easily. I remove the oil drain plate (10mm) and let the oil drain into the oil catcher. I’ll let the oil drain for at least 30 minutes or so. This is also a good opportunity to tidy up the bottom of the engine, removing any oil and dirt from the cooling fins. I also like to give the oil drain plate a fresh coat of paint, just to make it look nice. Oil changing kits are readily available and pretty cheap. Most will come with new copper washers, gaskets and a oil strainer. If you’re re-using your oil strainer, just clean it good with a degreaser and make sure there isn’t any sludge in it. I usually use the strainer twice before replacing it with a new one. When you put your oil drain plate back on, make sure you use the correct washers and have the gaskets in the correct place. Do not over tighten the nuts that hold the plate in place. Just hand tighten them. My engine requires 2.65 quarts of oil, your engine probably requires the same amount. I use 2.15 quarts of Rotella T 15w-40 and .5 of the STP oil additive. I use the oil additive for its zinc content. Your air cooled engine will love this combination!